COZY UP WITH PINOT NOIR

It’s for white wine drinkers, too.
As snow falls (and falls and falls!) and temperatures drop, some of my white wine drinking friends have asked about red wines they might like. Red wine sounds more warming at this time of year, more suited to the hibernation spirit. My wine of choice for these folks is Pinot Noir. Because Pinot Noir has more acid and less tannin than most red wines, it is more likely to appeal to a palate that generally prefers white wine.  It also usually has lighter body or “mouthfeel” than other red wines.

Personally, I came to Pinot Noir from the other end—preferring opulent reds, like California Cabernet Sauvignon. It was only when my palate developed enough to taste the sensuous subtleties in Pinot Noir that I became a huge fan. (Think “feminine” compared to more muscular, more masculine red wines including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Chianti and Tempranillo.)  

By the way, Pinot Noir—along with Chardonnay—is one of the two major grapes used in Champagne and Champagne-style sparkling wines.

Winemakers say that Pinot Noir is one of the trickiest grapes from which to make a good wine, that it is finicky and reacts strongly to small changes in its environment or treatment. For that reason, most of the Pinot Noirs that I really like cost a bit—or a lot—more than I usually spend for a daily wine. However, there are a few that are superb value at reasonable price, and we will get to them in a minute. But first, let’s look at Pinots from various places on the globe and discuss the similarities and differences among them.

What does it taste like?
Any grape delivers a different wine depending on the soil in which it is grown, the general climate, the weather of a particular vintage, the time of harvest, the handling of the grapes after harvest and throughout the wine-making process. Pinot Noir is among the most sensitive grapes in this regard, so much so that it’s hard to discuss a “typical” taste profile for the wine, even within a given region. But in general and at its best, Pinot Noir is characterized by a complex and subtle joining of black cherry, raspberry and plum fruits with earthy aromas of mushroom, damp woods, tobacco and chocolate, all delivered in silky textures that arouse libidinous senses.

Where is it grown?
BURGUNDY is the historical and spiritual home of Pinot Noir; except for Beaujolais, all red Burgundies are made from the Pinot Noir grape, though it usually does not say so on the label. The label will tell you, rather, in what region or village or vineyard of Burgundy the grapes grew. Yet, there is no greater Pinot Noir (to some connoisseurs, no greater wine) than a great red Burgundy. Identifying the great ones can be a challenge however as weather is uneven from vintage to vintage and therefore so is the wine, even those with “big names” like Cote d’Or (region), Puligny-Montrachet (a village) or Clos de Vougeot (a vineyard). Unfortunately, the price is not a reliable marker for the quality of the wine; the region demands price, and gets it.

In recent decades, growers in the New World have taken up the challenge of urging great wines from the Pinot Noir grape.  California, Oregon, New Zealand and Australia (especially Tasmania) each have any number of very fine Pinot Noirs. The best ones have in common with Burgundy the overall taste and feel of earthy sensuality as well as black cherry and raspberry fruit. The less expensive ones are, to my taste, too heavy on the fruit—almost sweet tasting—and lacking in the earthy tones of tobacco, moss, mushroom or barnyard. Wines that have a “California” appellation (as opposed to the more specific AVA names, which are discussed in the next paragraph) are likely to fall into this category as are some of the more popular Australian pinots.  (Since they’re popular, they obviously have a following, but I suspect white wine drinkers prefer a more acidic taste experience.)

Good Pinot Noir requires a cool climate. In CALIFORNIA, the regions along the coast or highly influenced by breezes from the Pacific Ocean support its superior development. Look for appellations like Santa Barbara, Carneros, Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley or Sonoma Coast. “Central Coast” or “North Coast” name larger regions that take in, between them, all of the smaller ones mentioned, yet, because there is more blending involved, these wines may cost less. They often display more fruit-forward taste profiles as well.

OREGON climate is more like Burgundy in temperature, sunlight and rainfall than California is, and Oregon Pinot Noirs (most from the Willamette Valley) are more similar to red Burgundies in taste than are any others in the world (which is not to say identical). Elegant and earthy, the best examples caress your palate with dark cherry and berry fruit flavors perfectly balancing the strong acids and oak undertones. I’ve found that, within the category of Oregon Pinot Noir, price is a pretty reliable indication of relative quality.

NEW ZEALAND is still young in its reputation for high quality Pinot Noir, but the wines are often exquisite. Martinborough, at the south end of the North Island, Marlborough and Otago, on the South Island, are the regions best known in the U.S. These very cool climate wines are high in fruit flavor, and the fruit is finely balanced with acids and extracted tannins. The wines feel lively in the mouth and pair well with a wide variety of foods.

Although many areas of AUSTRALIA grow Pinot Noir, my favorite by far is Tasmania. The wines are not easy to find here, but are well worth the search or the splurge if you find one. Tasmanian Pinot Noirs are intensely flavored and have a distinct spiciness I’ve not found in other Pinot Noirs. Refined and sumptuous, they also have the forest floor quality that is so clearly Pinot Noir.

Here are some examples of Pinot Noirs we’ve enjoyed over the holidays. Representing various price points and styles, they all provide good value and enjoyable drinking.
 

From Tasmania:
Moorilla, Black Label Pinot Noir 2003. ($18 retail at Wine Gallery, Brookline)  Intense, good structure, cherry and plum fruits, less spicy than some Tasmanians, paired beautifully with grilled salmon.  

From New Zealand:
The Jibe Pinot Noir, Marlborough NZ, 2004.  ($10 at Amherst Wines) Outstanding value, not too New World (i.e. fruit forward) in style—good varietal character and nice balance. Lovely sipping wine as well as good match for mushroom risotto.

From Oregon:
Evesham Wood, Les Puits Sec, Willamette Valley 2000 (organic, unfiltered) ($30 at North Berkeley Wines when we purchased it several years ago).  Clean, lean, cherry-infused with elegant complexity.  As it sits in the glass, the fruit gets rounder.  Drank with sweet-potato stuffed mushrooms and porcini couscous, and the food brought out the fruit. Lacks the traditional pinot earthiness, but not to its detriment.

Underwood Cellars, Pinot Noir, Oregon 2003 ($15) Good example of “typical” Oregon pinot—dry fruit with elegant austerity and earthiness. Medium long finish. Very nice at the price.

From California:
Castle Rock Pinot Noir, Monterey County 2006.  An amazing value at $14 (Shelburne Falls Wine Merchant) California style pinot, but not overwhelming. Fruit with just enough oak and plenty of earthiness. Paired very well with grilled mushrooms, two kinds of greens.

Castle Rock Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley 2006.  California-style red wine with burgundy elegance—bigger mouth-feel than most pinots, lots of fruit but not overwhelming.  The usual black cherry, blackberry, paired very well with autumn risotto and Cretan baked fish.  (Note: Castle Rock makes a 3rd Pinot Noir from Sonoma County. All three of these wines are sold out on the winery website—and for good reason; they represent astounding value.)

Chalone Vineyards Pinot Noir, Monterey County, 2006. ($16) The standard for mid-level California pinots: has the satin mouthfeel and balanced elegance of more expensive wines, along with bright fruit. A very versatile food wine.

Lincourt Vineyards Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara 1998 ($18 when we bought it, the 2004 would sell now for about $22). Medium-bodied with big flavor, able to stay with pesto, lamb, mustard—lots of complexity, velvety mouthfeel, and still feminine. Accolades for various vintages of this wine include “Best  American Pinot Noir” (Food & Wine magazine), “Good Value” at 91 points (Connoisseurs Guide to California wines ).